Intro to Busan
My brief visit to Busan for the Holi Hai festival in March perked my interest in the city, and I knew that it warranted a longer visit during peak summer season. So, while I had two days off from work at the end of this July, I headed to Busan for a long weekend!
Busan is South Korea’s second most populous city and its busiest port, a hub of activity on the southeast coast. It’s known for Haeundae Beach, the country’s largest, it’s raw seafood markets, and boasts the world’s biggest department store. Though it’s on the opposite side of the country from Seoul, a ride on the speedy KTX train will only take about 3 hours and set you back about 45 bucks. There are also cheaper train options that take less direct routes.
Haeundae Beach
I ended up staying at an excellent hostel called The New Day in Haeundae Beach. The location was ideal – it was right next to the subway station and main avenue, but removed from the craziness of the boardwalk’s epicenter. It was a calm haven away from the noise.
The staff was welcoming and helpful, and everything inside was clean and well-organized. In addition to the kitchen and main lounge, they had two more lounges on separate floors! This included a living-room style area, with artwork, board games, and a piano, in addition to a rooftop garden. It stands in my memory as one of the best hostels I’ve stayed at in a city center.
I wanted to stay in Haeundae to be in the center of the action. I knew I was heading to Korea’s most famous beach in the dog days of summer, but the magnitude of the crowds still took me back. Korea’s efficiency extends even to the beach, and not without good reason. Parasols, beach blankets, and tubes are set up in vast geometric rows. Fried chicken vendors roam the grid of umbrellas, ready to cater to hungry beachgoers. In the water, an armada of inner-tubers ride the waves together. There’s not a ton of elbow room, but that’s to be expected in Korea, and I like to think of it as just a chance to meet friendly beach neighbors.
Gwangali Beach is another nice option if Haeundae is not quite your speed. I found it had fewer crowds and a calmer current.
The energy at Haeundae doesn’t stop once the sun goes down. In fact, it’s only gearing up. The main avenue is filled with restaurants, market stalls, and street food through the night.
The hotspot of action was at the boardwalk along Haeundae. Set against the backdrop of the ocean, with skyscrapers rising on the other side, the energy is infectious. People wander the walkway until the early hours of the morning. Street performers dot the intersections. Here a few of my favorites – the immobile blue man and two folk singer sisters. (Don’t worry, I tipped!)
The capstone of my Saturday night was joining in a 2 am beach volleyball game with some employees of the Pakistani and Turkish Embassies in Seoul. We came from disparate parts of the globe, but here in Korea, we were all equally foreigners, which created an instant bond! It’s another thing I like about being a foreigner in Korea.
Beomeosa and the Geumgang Park Cable Car
On another note, it would be inaccurate to assume that Busan is only a downtown beach scene. There are other nature-oriented attractions in the city as well, which I made a point to visit.
My primary target was Beomeosa, one of Busan’s most prominent Buddhist temples. Getting there is pretty easy – take the subway Line 1 (Orange Line) to the second to last stop, Beomeosa. Between exits 5 and 7, walk up a road with a small hill, past traditional restaurants and shops, to the bus 90 stop. Bus 90 will take you to the temple entrance in minutes.
Beomeosa resides on the slopes of Geumjeong Mountain. At the summit of a mountain, legend tells of a golden well with water that never runs dry. A heavenly fish is said to reside there, granting this mystic property. I didn’t find the golden well, but I did feel calm and contemplative at the temple, a welcome respite from the city. The green-lined entryway led me in, and I worked my way through the different temples in the complex.
In many of the temples, worshipers were praying to buddha statues on intricate shrines, and photography was forbidden.
One aspect of buddhist temples I find particularly interesting are the Four Heavenly Kings, gods who watch over the four cardinal directions. These imposing figures stand in the gates of many Buddhist temple complexes. In Korean, they’re called 천왕 (Cheonwang). They are said to guard the world from evil and serve to focus visitors’ thoughts upon entering the temple.
The king guarding the north is chief among the Cheonwang. He holds a pagoda or umbrella and rules over the rain.
The southern king carries a sword and rules over the wind. It is he who causes all things to grow.
The guard of the east is peaceful and carries a pipa, a four-stringed instrument similar to the lute. He spreads harmony through music and controls the wind, thunder, and lightning.
Finally, the western king. He’s my favorite because I’m drawn to his signature symbols – he holds a dragon in one hand and a red jewel or pearl in the other. He sees all from his post in the heavens.
The other major nature-based spot I wanted to hit in Busan was the Geumgang Park Cable Car. To get there, I rode the subway Oncheonjang on the Orange Line (just a few stops from Beomeosa) and took a quick three dollar cab ride to the park entrance.
I’d definitely recommend the cable car as a great way to rise above the density of the city and absorb the view. For 8,000 won, you get a round-trip ticket to the top of Geumjong mountain. At the upper cable car base, there’s a cafe with Korean snacks and drinks, and trailheads leading around the mountain fortress site. I didn’t have time to explore all the hiking trails extensively, but for a break from the city, it can’t be beat.
Busan’s other famous attraction is the Gamcheon Culture Village, a collection of colorful houses and cafes built into the hillside near Toseong. For my next trip to Busan, it’s at the top of my list!
As for my overall impression of Busan, I will say this – it is a major bustling city, so if you’re looking for a peaceful, isolated beach getaway, it may not be your best bet. However, Busan has much to offer in terms of its coastal nightlife, seafood, and temples. It’s a can’t-miss on a trip around Korea. I’ve only scratched the surface so far, and I’m ready to delve deeper next time!
Originally published on the Teach ESL Korea Blog
Korea to the Max 